Beyond The Beach

Ancient legends, sea traders, and a shipwreck; Portals Vells has more history than you might expect from such a laid-back beach spot. A shipwreck from 600 BC was found just offshore, and it’s believed Phoenician sea traders once sheltered here. Long before the paddleboards and inflatables, the sandstone caves were quarried – in part to help build Palma Cathedral.

But it’s not all about the Phoenicians. In the Middle Ages, Genoese sailors are said to have survived a fierce storm and left a statue of the Virgin Mary in one of the caves in thanks. You can still spot the altar carved into the rock — the statue now lives in a nearby church, but the legend holds strong.

Why Families Love It

Because it’s one of those rare spots that works for everyone. Escapist vibes, no busy roads, toddlers can paddle, older kids can climb and explore, and grown-ups can actually sit down and enjoy the view. Just make sure to arrive early to get a spot near the sea!

It’s also a great spot for a breakfast picnic — arrive earlier than the beach-goers, follow the paths above the beach, and find a shady sandstone seat between Portals Vells and Cala des Mago.

Need to Know

Portals Vells isn’t just one beach — it’s part of a trio of coves, each with its own character. The main beach, Playa de Portals Vells (and the mini cove to its right), is the most family-friendly, with soft sand, shallow water, and a seasonal restaurant. Just around the headland to the left (facing the sea) is Playa del Mago — a smaller cove that’s mostly nudist — and beyond that, the narrow rocky Playa del Rei.

All three are walkable if you fancy a bit of exploring, but most families stick to the main beach for its easy access, facilities and clothing! The other two coves definitely have a more adult vibe.

Other considerations; ‘Vells’ as the locals call it, is a hotspot for boat day trips so make sure  to keep an eye on older kids to ensure they stay inside the buoys. And finally, consider avoiding the area after a storm, its geography means that jellyfish end up floating around the coves for a few days after high winds and rains. Read more about jelly fish in Mallorca here.

More To Explore

For the early risers, why not enjoy a coastal walk along the low cliff towards Cala Figuera Lighthouse – the trail begins just above the caves — info and route to download here: 10 Top Coastal Walks for Families in Mallorca.

Fast Facts

Suitable for: Ages 4+. Not pushchair-friendly

Best time to visit: Year-round, but aim to arrive before 11 am (10 if possible) to claim a quiet picnic spot on the sandstone. The boats — and buzz — arrive soon after.

Location: 10 minutes by car from Magaluf. Follow signs to Portals Vells (NOT Playa de Mago). There is no public transport.

Facilities: Toilets, drinks, snacks and ice cream available at the beach restaurant Es Repos (open May to October).

Parking: Free parking at the Portals Vells car park. It’s small and sandy, get there early in summer or you may have to park along the road up the hill.