If your kids love a bit of exploring (or just aren’t that into playing on the sand), Portals Vells Beach is ideal. Just beyond Magaluf, this trio of coves have cliffside caves to explore, sandstone ledges to climb and 500 yr-old wall carvings to fuel all kinds of pirate-inspired adventures — plus a stunning cove with clear, turquoise water if they change their minds.
Beyond The Beach
Ancient legends, sea traders, and a shipwreck; Portals Vells has a more dramatic history than you might expect from such a laid-back beach spot. A shipwreck from 600 BC was found just offshore, and it’s believed Phoenician sea traders once sheltered here. Long before the paddleboards and inflatables, the sandstone caves were quarried, in part to help build Palma Cathedral.
Many years later, in the Middle Ages, Genoese sailors are said to have survived a fierce storm and left a statue of the Virgin Mary in one of the caves in thanks. You can still spot the altar carved into the rock. The statue now lives in a nearby church, but the legend holds strong.
Why Families Love It
Portals Vells is all about the turquoise water and escapist vibes with calm sheltered coves, no busy roads and plenty to explore.
It’s also a great spot for a breakfast picnic on a sunny spring morning. Arrive earlier than the beach-goers, follow the paths above the beach, and find a shady sandstone seat between Portals Vells and Cala des Mago.
Need to Know
Portals Vells isn’t just one beach, it’s part of a trio of coves, each with its own character. The main beach, Playa de Portals Vells and the small cove to its right, are the most family-friendly, with soft sand, shallow water, and a seasonal restaurant. Walk around the headland to the left (facing the sea) and you arrive at Playa del Mago – a smaller cove, popular with nudists – and beyond that, the rocky, narrow Playa del Rei.
All three are walkable if you fancy exploring, but most families stick to the main beach for its easy access, facilities and clothing! The other two coves definitely have a more adult vibe.
Other considerations; Portals Vells is a hotspot for boat day trips so make sure to keep an eye on older kids to ensure they stay inside the buoys.
You may want to skip the area after a storm – jellyfish often end up floating around the coves for a few days after high winds and rains, and early in the season you may find seaweed floating in the shallows.
More To Explore
For the early risers, why not enjoy a coastal walk along the low cliff towards Cala Figuera Lighthouse – the trail begins just above the caves — info and route to download here: 10 Top Coastal Walks for Families in Mallorca.
Fast Facts
Suitable for: Ages 4+. Not pushchair-friendly
Best time to visit: Year-round, but aim to arrive before 11 am (10 if possible) to claim a quiet picnic spot on the sandstone. The boats and crowds arrive soon after.
Location: 10 minutes by car from Magaluf. Follow signs to Portals Vells (NOT Playa de Mago). There is no public transport.
Facilities: Toilets, drinks, snacks and ice cream available at the beach restaurant Es Repos (open May to October).
Parking: Free parking at the Portals Vells car park. It’s small and sandy, get there early in summer or you may have to park along the road up the hill.
